Talk about hot off the press. The Fig Tree had been open for only two days when we stopped by for dinner on a beautiful spring evening. But it seemed as if they’d already gotten all the kinks out.
If you’re walking along tree-lined Park Avenue between Fourth and Third Streets, you might miss this classy, upscale eatery. The understated façade in tones of metallic copper, black, and gray, with its discreet sign, is recessed from the street, down a few steps from the sidewalk level.
The interior repeats the elegant motif. The décor is sleek contemporary in subtle shades of gray and white. We ate in the airy front room, right near the window. But the restaurant goes way back to a spacious dining area with a gas fireplace and beyond that, a room for private dining.
Owner Gerry Farrelly, who also owns Zack’s, the Oak Bar and Restaurant at 232 Willow, is a friendly, gregarious Irishman who recounts how he wanted The Fig Tree to have a West Village feel. “It’s not a place for kids,” he says. “It’s a place for parents to come alone and talk about their kids.”
Indeed, it has a refined, adult, white-tablecloth ambience with candles and fresh flowers but still friendly and inviting. And you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the prices.
Dinner is Served
Wine lovers will revel in the The Fig Tree’s extensive wine list. But photographer Beth DiCara and I chose from the restaurant’s craft beer list. Farrelly emphasizes that there are no Bud Lights and no TV at the bar. We selected a Smuttynose IPA and Victory Prima.
We were given a complimentary teaser of octopus and ceviche on a taco chip, followed by cornbread with cheddar and chives, served with a delicious combo of butter and honey.
For an appetizer we ordered yellowfin tuna tartare, which came sculpted in a mélange of edamame, avocado, sesame, mint, and Thai chili vinaigrette, held together with light and crispy filo.
Fish is a specialty of the house. Beth ordered butter-poached lobster with fennel bread pudding, sea beans, runner beans, heirloom radishes, and parsley beurre blanc. Consisting of just the most delectable parts—the tail and the claws—it did not look like a large portion, but Beth nevertheless had to take some home.
I chose Atlantic hake, served with melted leeks, Bouchon mussels, applewood smoked bacon, and lemon beurre blanc. It was a light, flaky white fish, brought to life by the synthesis of flavors surrounding it.
Form Follows Function
A word about presentation: Executive Chef Milton Enriquez is a real artist. Every dish was painstakingly arranged with scrupulous attention to shape and color, as well as to taste.
For dessert we ordered a chocolate mousse cake which came with a sauce of mixed berries. Due to a fortuitous mistake by the chef, we were also served a peanut butter chocolate cake that came with caramel popcorn and coffee ice cream. Two smooth decaf lattes topped off this exquisite dining experience.
The staff was perfect for this chic establishment. Lauren, the hostess, seemed like a pro even though it was her first day at work. Kristine was a knowledgeable and friendly server, and Luis bussed with efficiency.
Oh, and by the way, there is a fig tree somewhere on the premises and lots of pictures of figs and fig leaves on the walls.—Kate Rounds
The Fig Tree
306-308 Park Ave.
(201) 420-0444
thefigtreehoboken.com