Eating Out Edward’s: A steakhouse with bistro flare

Downtown Jersey City now has an upscale New York-style steakhouse of its own. Edward Gozdz, formerly of the Old Homestead in Manhattan’s meatpacking district, crossed the Hudson to serve as executive chef of the new steakhouse bearing his name. Gozdz has brought along many of the signature dishes he created in his 10 years at the Old Homestead, including a chopped salad with lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, olives, green beans, mushrooms, blue cheese, and more.But let’s cut to the chase: Edward’s is really earning a reputation for its steaks. Edward’s Steak House serves aged USDA Prime beef, and the menu offers all the classic steaks and chops – sirloin, porterhouse, filet mignon, and more.

Gozdz describes Edward’s as a steakhouse with a bistro flare, and that applies to the menu as well as the atmosphere.

“Basically, we brought Manhattan to New Jersey,” Gozdz says.

Unexpected choices

Aside from the traditional steaks and sides, Edward’s offers unexpected choices, including the filet mignon vegetable spring roll appetizer ($10). This delicious dish tastes as good as it looks – it comes plated on a colorful bed of julienne vegetables and topped with an edible orchid. We also enjoyed the jumbo lump crab cake ($12), with remarkably large lumps of crabmeat, in lemon butter sauce. Again, the presentation was striking, this time thanks to a bright drizzle of beet vinaigrette.

Tucked into a historic townhouse in downtown Jersey City, Edward’s is comfortably upscale. The relaxed, elegant atmosphere makes it easy to enjoy your meal, whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or stopping by for a steak sandwich at the bar.

Stepping down from Marin Boulevard, you enter near the gleaming bar, lined with patrons and baskets of complimentary homemade potato chips. A seat at the bar is also a great place to enjoy a spectacular tiered tray with your choices from the raw bar: clams, oysters, seared tuna, or jumbo shrimp (priced by the piece, $1.50 to $5 each). For those who like to be near the action at the bar – or keep an eye on the game via one of the flat-screen TVs – Edward’s has several cozy tables on the first level, but its two main dining rooms are upstairs.

The quiet dining areas offer candlelit tables set with white linens, hardwood floors, light-colored wood wainscoting, and contemporary paintings. Both dining rooms have vintage light fixtures, and the back room features a large skylight. Attentive service from waiters in shirts and ties completes the picture.

As each course arrived from the kitchen, I was delighted by the restaurant’s array of mismatched china – a whimsical touch that demonstrates Edward’s attention to detail. It’s one more reminder that this isn’t your average steakhouse. Edward’s turns out an excellent steak, but it also exceeds expectations with distinctive menu choices and its upmarket, but unfussy atmosphere.

Steak plus

For our main courses, we tried the pan-seared sea scallops ($21) and a special suggested by the chef – the Cajun sirloin square ($34). I’m a huge fan of scallops, and these definitely hit the mark. Gozdz dipped the scallops in seasoned flour before searing them, resulting in a very fine, subtle crust that set off the silky texture of the shellfish. The scallops were served over ratatouille and a rich Cajun shrimp sauce.

The Cajun sirloin square is a first-rate slab of beef perfectly cooked with a spicy, blackened exterior. The flavors of this dish also suggest the Southwest (and a nod to the Far East), as the steak is served over roast corn and zucchini with a Kobe chili sauce. That’s right – Kobe beef in the sauce, another touch you might not expect to find on this side of the Hudson. (And the menu promises that Kobe steaks are coming soon.) The sauce was outstanding, with an assertive chili-powder taste enriched by the famous marbling of the Japanese beef.

Of course, Edward’s also serves up first-rate standards, so dad can tuck into his filet mignon while more adventurous diners explore the menu’s more inventive offerings.

On the menu

Edward’s Steak House

239 Marin Blvd., Jersey City

(201) 761-0000

www.edwardssteakhouse.com

Lunch: In addition to choices from the main menu, Edward’s offers five sandwiches, including a steak sandwich with sautéed onions and Portobello mushrooms, $12.

Appetizers: $6-12. Try the filet mignon vegetable spring roll, $10.

Salads: $6-9. The chef’s signature chopped salad is $7.

Entrees: $19-70. Most entrees are in the $19-34 range, but if you’re in the mood for a celebration, 42 ounces of Porterhouse for two is $70. A popular choice is the sirloin au poivre with black peppercorns in a brandy cream sauce, $32.

Desserts: $7-8. For a rich indulgence, finish off with the triple chocolate mousse – layers of dark, white, and milk chocolate atop a chocolate cake base, $7.

Open: Serves lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. On Sunday, Edward’s opens at 3 p.m.

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