Eating at Raval on a summer evening gives you the full picture of the fresh energy and excitement on Newark Avenue downtown. The new pedestrian mall is crowded with strollers, cyclists, and shoppers. A guy balances on his bike, texting while folks stream past him. Raval, which opened last spring, is brought to you by the same folks who operate the very successful Satis Bistro in Paulus Hook.
The façade has a nice, natural-wood feel that draws walk-ins off the mall. But Raval has made a big splash since its debut, and a lot of folks are making reservations or coming early to get a seat in front. And those three front “booths” are truly remarkable. They’re made from colorful handmade mosaic tile that echo Gaudi’s Barcelona. Two are adorned with mosaic figurines in the shape of a bull and a lizard.
The bullfight and flamenco motif is on display in original paintings on the walls above the tables and in hand-painted murals throughout.
In the back are the bar and additional seating with red banquettes and black-and-white photos on the walls, and in the basement is another bar and dining room.
Raval has an extensive wine list, as well as sherry, sangria, ciders, and beer. The cocktail menu features an array of colorful mixes with some interesting ingredients. We order the raspberry gin and tonic, a pink, summery blend of Brooklyn gin, raspberry, and Jack Rudy cocktail tonic, garnished with fresh raspberries.
Raval is noted for its extensive tapas menu. Cisco, the manager, helps us choose four “small plates” from a list of 23 offerings. First up is salpicón, a refreshing seafood salad of octopus, prawns, mussels, and citrus olive vinaigrette. The octopus and vinaigrette is an especially appealing pair. Next up is espinaca, sautéed spinach, dried figs, and toasted almonds. This is a really textured combination of savory and sweet, with the sweet figs hidden at the bottom and crispy almonds on top. Ensalada rusa, a blend of potatoes, carrots, peas, poached tuna, tomato and onion confit, with dill dressing and olive oil, topped with a quail egg, is not your family-reunion-picnic potato salad. The last of the tapas dishes is pulpo gallego, Spanish octopus, fingerling potatoes, garlic, and smoked paprika. The paprika gives it an allover burnished-copper look, the texture supplied by the two contrasting ingredients.
The entrée takes 35 minutes to prepare, so if you are thinking of ordering the paella valenciana, (chicken paella), tell your waiter right away so that it can cook while you enjoy cocktails and tapas.
The paella, made from bomba rice, bone-in all-natural chicken, and chorizo, arrives in a hot frying pan. The chicken is so tender it falls off the bone, and the rice has a crunchy, tomato-y texture.
Chef de Cuisine Edward Radich shows up to inspect his creation. For some reason, he is brandishing a very unlikely kitchen utensil—a shiny new wrench. For the sake of the photograph, he fluffs up the paella a bit, but not with the wrench. The dish doesn’t need much fixing. It’s absolutely delicious the way it is. One warning: Don’t order so many tapas dishes that you are too full for the entrée.
Other entrees include seared chicken with tomato, sauteed spinach, and garbanzo beans; prawns and chorizo with saffron garlic vinaigrette; seared market fish, romesco sauce, summer pole beans, radish and spiced almonds; heritage pork tenderloin with salsa verde, charred corn, and asparagus; flatiron steak, pan roasted fingerling potatoes, piquillo pepper and piri piri sauce; vegetarian paella with braised spinach, piquillo, and garbanzo beans; and paella with market shellfish and seafood.
As we leave, the sounds of Groove on Grove can be heard a couple of blocks away, adding to the lively, festive vibe that personifies the new Newark Avenue.—Kate Rounds
Raval
136 Newark Ave.
(201) 209-1099
ravaljc.com