This Japanese eatery is not just a restaurant. It’s an experience. The name says it all: Otaiko Hibachi & Sushi Lounge. Walk in, and you’re enveloped in a spacious dining room divided into a kind of stage set with a bar and various areas and levels, separated by steps and curved dividers and columns and all manner of textured wall coverings.
One raised dining area is for folks who want a quiet night out. On the Tuesday evening we were there, most of these patrons were in twos, including a pair of military men. Step down a level, and you’re in the sushi bar. Above it is a large flat screen TV that looks as if a waterfall is gently cascading in front of it. It was early spring, and the Yankees were playing the Orioles.
Alex had managerial duties that night. He turned out to be a master at selecting the bon morsel. The first item to appear was a black pepper tuna on a bed of greens with a zesty dressing. The tuna was rosy colored, with a sharp coating of pepper.
Wait, before I go on, I need to say something about the presentation. Everything was a work of art, tastefully (pun intended) arranged on the plate.
Next out—and I have to admit, this was my favorite—a delicate Chilean sea bass perched on a little mound of black rice that tasted a bit sweet, with just a hint of coconut. The sea bass is usually an entrée served in a miso glaze with mushroom, sugar snow peas, and asparagus. But this was a much smaller, appetizer-size dish. For anyone who is not into raw fish, this is a perfect alternative, perfectly cooked.
For the next entry, presentation was at a fever pitch. It arrived on what looked to be a rolled-up bamboo placemat set at an angle with a large chunk of cucumber holding up the raised end. What looked to be a banana leaf (Google images to the rescue!) served as the pallet for four sizeable springtime rolls, made with fresh salmon, tuna, mango, and avocado. They were exquisite.
For dessert, there were a number of American-style items, but we asked Alex to bring us something reflective of Japanese culture and cuisine. What appeared was green-tea flavored tempura ice cream. The rich green ice cream comes encased in what Alex called “cake,” but it had a slightly fried consistency and taste, just like the tempura for which it is named. An overlarge plate left plenty of room for an artful display of colorful sauces in decorative stripes.
Across the room, in the hibachi area, is where all the action is. And, not surprisingly, there were a lot of families with young kids, who loved watching the hibachi chefs with their tall white hats cook up their sizzling meals right in front of their eyes.
The substantial hibachi menu includes vegetables, steak, shrimp, salmon, lobster, and scallops served in just about any combination.
Our sushi chef was apparently fashioning some special creations just for us. But the standard menu is chock-full of choices, including a wide range of soups, salads, appetizers, sashimi, rolls, and noodle dishes, as well as traditional “kitchen entrees.”
This misty mid-April evening was a bit chilly, but as soon as the weather gets warm, you’re going to want to visit Otaiko and sit outside on the terrace, which offers a quintessential Bayonne view. To the right is the huge mound of earth which protects the gorgeous Bayonne golf course.
Across a narrow inlet, you can see the lights and cranes of the GCT container terminal and beyond that the Freedom Tower, majestic in the distance.
Enjoying an evening at this hibachi and sushi lounge you’re reminded that memorable experiences don’t always occur in the most obvious places. Don’t let anyone tell you that there’s nothing special in a Bayonne strip mall.—Kate Rounds
Otaiko
125 Lefante Way
(201) 339-3399/3392
otaikonj.com