Beyond the French doors in a North Bergen restaurant are inspired combinations of Latin food with an Asian flair. How’s that for multicultural? North Bergen’s Sabor offers a variety of dishes that are unusual and satisfying.
The atmosphere
If you are driving past the eatery on River Road, you might catch a glimpse of the umbrellas and wrought iron chairs in the outdoor café. This glance doesn’t even show you the elegance within. Inside are ornate mirrors on red walls, silk-cushioned banquet seats along the walls, and candles on white linen tablecloths. The French doors that circle the main dining room open out to a wide terrace that is decorated with large potted plants and flowers. Even though the outdoor seating is on the busy River Road, the bushes and torches that surround the patio area make you feel as if you have been transported to a private hideaway.
Starters
Every diner is treated to fresh bread with homemade hummus that is made with white beans, garlic, onions, and salt and pepper. It is blended to a creamy consistency that has flavor but doesn’t overwhelm the taster with the garlic or onions. I started with the Tuna & Avocado Tiradito, which is rare tuna that is sliced in ribbons so that it lies flat. It was layered with watermelon and avocado, with shredded cilantro on top. This appetizer is made with jalapeno and Thai basil.
The first taste is initially spicy, but that was cut by the salty yet sweet taste of avocado and refreshing finish of watermelon. From the first bite to the last, this artfully presented dish was excellent. Next, I had the Camarones Al Ajillo Con Cachapas, garlic shrimp nestled in corn cakes and sundried tomatoes and topped with scallions. The grilled shrimp has a slight kick to it that combines well with the rich tomato sauce and slightly sweet and moist corn cake. Both appetizers were perfectly seasoned with flavors that were distinct yet well combined.
All appetizers run from $8 to $12. Salads include: an arugula and endive salad ($10); a crispy calamari salad over baby greens ($12). Seafood tapas include: lump crab and shrimp empanadas; seafood stew; steamed mussels; snapper ceviche; and crabmeat salad over a bean fritter. Meat Tapas include: short ribs; chicken empanadas; pulled pork with black bean sauce; and miso glazed baby back ribs. The Sabor Tower is an appetizer special that is a selection of the appetizers. It is $25 and serves three to four people.
The entrees
For dinner, I had the Prime Cowboy Steak, which is 18 oz. of prime rib sliced and topped with charred tomato vinaigrette. It is served with corn pudding topped with cabrales cheese, which tastes similar to blue cheese.
The meat, which is organic farm-raised beef, is tender and juicy. The plum tomatoes are grilled with thyme and garlic garnishes the beef. The sweet corn pudding combined with the sharp flavor of the cheese was delicious. It wasn’t until I was halfway through the entrée that I noticed that there wasn’t salt or pepper on the table – and the food didn’t need it. Each dish was seasoned to perfection. When I asked the server if they offered it, he said yes, but only if people ask. At Sabor, they want you to taste the seasonings they worked so hard at.
The steak dish was one of the specialty entrees that chef Alexis Lahens created for the new menu. Lahens experiments with flavors to see what blends well. He said he wants people to taste the combinations. He plans on updating the menu seasonally, while keeping certain favorite dishes year round.
Other entrees
At Sabor, seafood entrees include: Paella over rice; salmon with roasted tomato, olives, onions and avocado; red snapper; and adobe spiced tuna. The seafood dishes are $20 to $26. Meat entrees include: Peruvian roasted chicken; spiced chicken; duck; roasted pig; glazed duck; and skirt steak. The meat dishes are $12 to $34.
Service
Service is timed so each dish arrives separately so you can leisurely enjoy each one. New silverware is also brought for each course. Water, which is served at all the tables, is refilled with out asking.
The service is attentive and courteous, yet unobtrusive. Diners are allowed to linger over the extensive wine list or specialty drink menu without feeling pressure to hurry up and order. The staff is knowledgeable about the menu and presents the information in a direct way. On the night I was there, the floor manager was highly visible, checking on tables and even bussing them when necessary.
The check is only brought when asked, not dropped after dessert like some places that are anxious to turn the tables.
And dessert
The Coconut Tres Leche was the perfect finish. The coconut was slightly sweet and topped with a piece of chocolate lattice. Sabor has their own pastry chef. All desserts are made on the premises. Other desserts include: chocolate and almond pate; rum and caramel glazed bananas; mojito cheesecake; mango mousse; almond crème brulee, and a daily selection of sorbet and gelato. All desserts are $6 to $8.
And More
Sabor is located at 8809 River Road in North Bergen. They offer lunch Monday through Friday from 11 to 4:30 p.m. Dinner is served from 5 to 10 p.m. Monday to Wednesday. Thursday dinner is until 11 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 5:30 to 11 p.m., with a late night menu offered Thursday to Saturday from 11 p.m. to 1 a.m. On Sunday they serve brunch with Flamingo music from 11:30 to 3:30 p.m., and dinner is from 4:30 to 10 p.m. Reservations are recommended on weekends.
They can accommodate large parties in the upstairs dining room and will customize the menu for groups. Gift certificates are available and they have a full bar in addition to a large wine list. On Friday and Saturday night they have a DJ in the bar area at 11 p.m. and they serve drinks on the terrace when the kitchen closes. Smoking is allowed in the bar area and outside.
For more information or for reservations please call: (201) 943-6366, or visit www.saborlatinbistro.net . All major credit cards are accepted.