Martini madness The lure of the sophisticated cocktail

When purists talk about the martini, they will only discuss the classic martini made famous by James Bond movies. The choices were simple then, too: Vodka or Gin, shaken or stirred, olive or twist. But with shows like Sex and the City introducing a generation of women to the cosmo, the martini has entered new territory. Now, bars compete to keep up with the changing and discriminating tastes of drinkers. Every bar wants to be the one that has the next “it” flavor.

Lua

Walking into this upscale restaurant on the Hudson, you are struck by the size and shape of the bar. It is a circular bar that gives customers not only a view of the skyline, but also a view of each other. And look at each other they do, as the crowd here is attractive and dressed up for a night out. The bar top is lit up with yellows and with reds along the drink rail.

Lua’s martini glass is slimmer than the typical glass and has more weight at the bottom, so they don’t tip over. All of their glasses are kept chilled. Fernando Delbono, general manager of Lua, describes the place as having a “Vegas feel with a New York view.”

Frank Avoletta, bar manager of Lua, was aware of the drink’s popularity when they created the martini list. “I think there is a certain status when you drink a martini, and people appreciate the taste of a good drink,” said Avoletta. “They are fun to drink. You can always judge the bar by how good the martini is. They are sexy. Drinking a martini is sexy.”

Joe Garcia, from Liberty Realty in Hoboken, came in for the Luapolitan, one of their signature drinks. “The Luapolitan is extremely refreshing. It’s a great combination of ingredients,” said Garcia. Melissa Duffy, bartender at Lua, said that the apple martini and the Luapolitan are two favorites. “I think they look for that NY atmosphere,” said Duffy, when asked why martinis are popular. She said that the bar scene was about going out, having a good time, and ordering a special cocktail.

The Madison

It was standing room only on martini night at the Madison on 14th Street. The young college-age crowd is there for the inexpensive drinks and the dance music. Desperate Housewife is the name of the newly created martini at the Madison.

Kate Howard from Hoboken was out with her friend Mary Peters for a girls’ night out. “I like the taste,” said Howard. “I like the fun names,” Peters said. “Each one is an adventure. You don’t know what you are going to get.”

Mike Frank, Weehawken resident, was out with fiancée Tracey Schroeder. He said that they used to come to the Madison every Tuesday before they moved out of Hoboken. Frank said he likes martinis because, “There is not a lot of wasted space in the stomach. It gets right to the point.” Schroeder was drinking a dirty martini. “They’re sophisticated,” said Schroeder. “They’re fun, and they don’t leave you bloated.”

Dan Tulino, from Wayne, comes to the Madison every Tuesday with friends Mark Tambone and Phil Donchevich. Tulino was drinking a dirty martini. “In general, people are drinking more martinis,” said Tulino. “After Sex in the City it became very hip.” Dave Carney, owner of the Madison, thinks his martini night will continue to be popular. “First is the half price point on a normally off night,” he said. “Then there is the uniqueness of the drink.”

3 Forty Grill

3 Forty Grill is a hip lounge on Hoboken’s waterfront that has views of the Empire State Building. There are comfortable couches and ottomans arranged in circles that make it possible to accommodate large groups or to have a private conversation. Thursday night is ’80s night and half priced martini night.

The crowd last Thursday was made up of mostly young professionals in their late twenties and early thirties. The ’80s music playing in the background is low enough to have a conversation without straining your voice. Tiffany Shenman, Hoboken resident and agent at Castle Point Realty, arranged to have the Hoboken Happy Hour Group meet at the restaurant. The group meets once a month at the bar on martini night. Shenman thinks more women drink martinis because of Sex and the City and because of the colors. “I love watermelon martinis,” said Shenman.

The group includes over 400 members who wouldn’t normally cross paths. They meet up for cocktails and conversation. Donna Pink, a registered nurse and a former Hoboken resident, loves the variety of flavors in the martini. “There are so many different kinds, and they all taste very good,” said Pink. “They make you feel sophisticated.” Kerri-Ann Sweeten, one of the owners of 3 Forty Grill, said that they hired an architect in order to create the right atmosphere. Every detail was exacting, from the mahogany floor, to the black high tops around the bar, to the soft amber lighting.

“We cater to a sophisticated crowd,” said Sweeten. “I want people to come in who aren’t afraid to try experimental foods and drinks, like you see in clubs in Manhattan.”

The Gaslight

The Gaslight is an off-the-beaten-path restaurant on Adams Street. The red lights hanging over the bar and red walls give the place an intimate feel. The bar top is made from the hatches of old ships. While it is not as big as the other venues, the Gaslight still has a crowd on Wednesday nights for martini night. Claude Persico, owner of the Gaslight for seven years, has fine tuned his martini list. “You can sample nearly 30 different martinis, from the classic to the fruity,” said Persico. He described the crowd as high-end. “It’s a classy, fun crowd,” he said. “Lots of women come for the martinis, and lots of couples. It’s almost like family because I know everyone.”

What’s next?

Bert Zoino, general manager of Mile Square on Washington Street, thinks the martini is here to stay. “The martini, or what we now call the martini, got its resurgence from Sex in the City,” said Zoino. “You can be somewhat sophisticated and still drink something that packs a punch.”

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