Skinner’s Loft in Jersey City will be two years old around Labor Day, but the trendy downtown Jersey City restaurant is refined for its years.
Traditional jazz standards trumpet through the wide open spaces of the three-level restaurant at 146 Newark Ave., but the refreshingly low prices on the menu do not suggest the aged atmosphere. With a copper ceiling atop the bar area on the first floor, and 1920s-esque chandeliers in the dining area on the second, the restaurant is indelibly warm and sophisticated. Stained glass windows, exposed brick, and an electric fireplace add to the warmth – impressionably and quite literally – of the dining area, while the outdoor space on the roof adds another layer to this impressive building.
Skinner’s Loft is a couple blocks from the PATH train station, too. But don’t worry about the place being crowded with too many hipster NYC gastronomes venturing off their island for a pleasant meal at a fair price; there’s plenty of space between tables at Skinner’s Loft, with its high ceilings and open layout.
The menu is quite eclectic and trendy, presenting various well-loved dishes in striking and memorable new ways. From popcorn falafel to chef’s choice fondue, almost everything on the menu is at the very least intriguing.
Menu
The inventive lobster B.L.T. was quite light and palpable, and although my guest and I dined at night, it can be found on the brunch menu. The heaping portion of lobster wasn’t overbearing, refreshingly paired with shoestring fries, and could easily be imagined eaten with a tall mimosa.
The macaroni and cheese was flamboyantly rich and creamy in sharp cheddar, Monterrey jack and Gruyere cheeses topped with tiny islands of toasted bread crumbs. Wonderfully rich, it’s hard to believe any diner would get to the bottom of this bowl – make sure to get a doggie bag.
Walking through both the bar and dining areas, almost every table had an order from the cutting board, a fitting name for an appetizing starter. The soppressata, prosciutto, cheese, cornichon and olives were distinctly Mediterranean and were being enjoyed over tall cocktails, like pumpkin martinis and highballs.
The baby back ribs fell right off the bone, and a bit short on imagination, braised in a delicious Guinness and orange sauce. However, the creamed spinach gratin was a perfect match to the tender beef, and the butternut squash offered a perfect opposition in flavor.
The Prince Edward Island mussels were served in a stainless steel pot, covered with a lid to keep in the steaming aroma. With a tarragon, white wine, and Dijon sauce, the mussels had a textured flavor that was quite distinct; my guest asked for the recipe.
In addition to the intriguing menu selection, the restaurant offers a similarly fitting selection of domestic and imported beers ranging around 50, including many lesser-known names like Samuel Smith and Old Speckled Hen from England or Lindeman’s Framboise from Belgium.
Brunch at the loft
After a long weekend, the brunch menu would settle any stomach without troubling the wallet. Ranging from $8 to $15, the brunch dishes cover the standard eggs Benedict to slightly more adventurous filet mignon sliders, to a homestyle Italian orecchiette consisting of sweet and hot Italian sausage, escarole, and white beans.
A wild mushroom, goat cheese, and leek frittata is topped with a petite green salad. And the tostada ranchera spices up fried eggs with black beans, jalapeno peppers, and cheddar cheese.
Skinner’s Loft is open seven days a week, from 11 a.m. to midnight, and has room for parties accommodating up to 25 in the front room on the second floor, and 65 in the loft.
For more information on Skinner’s Loft, 146 Newark Ave. in Jersey City, please call (201) 915-0600 or visit www.skinnersloft.com.
Sean Allocca can be reached at seana@hudsonreporter.com