The choice of eats uptown just got bigger with the Jefferson opening up on Washington Street, just below 14th. The newly opened Jefferson lies across the street from its sister restaurant, the Madison. While the Madison, with its popular nightlife, offers up new American cuisine, the Jefferson serves Nouveau Italian.
Owner David Carney explained why he opened the restaurant across the street.
“Because the opportunity presented itself, and I’m an opportunist,” he said.
The Jefferson has a metal bar, and the staff said that it offers a less crowded alternative. The bar has a list of bellinis. A bellini, Prosecco mixed with fresh fruit purees, is considered the Italian version of a mimosa, champagne with orange juice.
“We focus on the Italian way of eating. Light clean flavors,” said Chef Michael Coury. “Our creed is straightforward and different. The presentations are clean with a big plate. When you eat it, it’s not going to be towers of food you’re afraid to dig into.”
Coury previously worked for Mario Batali, who hosts the show Multo-Mario on the Food Network and owns a number of restaurants in Manhattan.
The meal started with a braciole ($8), a spicy braised meat dish with mushroom ragu. It tastes like stew, but melts in your mouth even though it is meaty.
“My family is from Pulia in Southern Italy,” said Courey. “There’s not a lot of wealth down there, so they do a lot of braised meat. Braised is cooked for a longer period of time until it breaks down, usually a tougher piece of meat. We do a lot of those on our menu, such as oxtail or osso bucco.”
Next was a taleggio salad ($10) with mixed greens, pear, pine nut, and balsamic vinaigrette. It is named for the three wedges of cheese on the plate.
The salad was followed by ricotta gnocchi ($12) topped with sausage ragu and stuffed with ricotta cheese instead of potato.
“Gnocchi is slang for dumpling,” said Coury. “It means ‘tempting priest.’ It would tempt a priest to break his vow.”
And who could blame him? Unlike typical gnocchi, the cheese filled pasta was so light you could break it with your tongue, and almost just swallow it. After the first two courses, there was plenty of room for what was to come.
“Italians like to go through multiple courses,” said Coury. “It’s not eating to get full. The wine is not to get drunk, but to enhance the taste of the food and the dining experiences.”
Different wines can add a different flavor to the same meal. Every two weeks, the staff is trained in wine tasting. “People want to order a bottle of wine,” said manager Wendy. “Wine is a condiment, and the servers all have their favorite.”
The wait staff is also trained to understand the Italian menu.
The main course was a tender grilled veal chop ($28), topped with shitake salad and chinzano. The entire cut of meat was tasty and soft. If you do order the dish, make sure to try some of the meat that is around the bone, because there, the flavor is concentrated.
Every day, the Jefferson has a Del Giorno, a Special of the Day which includes solume, or a selection of meats, formaggio, or cheeses, and other courses. Wendy said that many people like to have cheese with dessert, as it complements the wine very well.
The desert course was Tiramisu, from a recipe used by the family that invented tiramisu in Rome.
“It’s a little different, but people seem to enjoy it,” said Coury.