For 25 years, Hector Zuleta worked as a supervisor in the research division of the prestigious pharmaceutical firm Schering-Plough. The long-time North Bergen resident and Cuban native had worked hard on establishing his career and providing for his family.
But when the company began to offer an early retirement package a few years ago, Zuleta was quick to accept. “I basically had enough,” Zuleta said. “I was ready to retire.”
Well, not entirely.
Zuleta was more than prepared to walk away from the pharmaceutical world, but he was also ready to embark on a new venture – that of being a French chef.
“I was always cooking, never to the extent of being a chef, but I was always interested,” Zuleta said. “I had friends in France and traveled through France with friends many times. Once I tasted French cuisine, I was hooked. I became quite a Frenchman. It was instantly my favorite.”
Imagine that. A man who was born in Cuba, emigrated to the United States and Hudson County in the 1960s, and raised his family here, falling in love with French foods. Not the ethnic Hispanic fare, but the rich, creamy saucy foods of Paris.
“One of my friends in France is a chef and she became my mentor,” Zuleta said. “I got excited and felt like I wanted to do something different.”
So Zuleta enrolled at the French Culinary Institute in New York, attending classes three nights a week. When he wasn’t learning the craft, he was working for “Nuevo Latino” chef Douglas Rodriguez at the famed Patria restaurant on Park Avenue South and 19th Street in Manhattan as a pastry chef.
After graduating from the French Culinary Institute, Zuleta took a job at Steven’s Café on Bergenline Avenue as a chef, helping out, making deserts. He was also helping a friend run a day care center in Flemington, doing cooking at the school.
All the while, Zuleta dreamed of opening his own restaurant.
“But every time someone called me to tell me about a possible restaurant, it was always too big,” Zuleta said. “I wanted something smaller.”
As it turned out, one of the owners of Steven’s Café passed away. The other owner was looking to sell.
“That’s how I got my restaurant,” Zuleta said.
So Zuleta opened his dream eatery at the same site where he once worked. Called “La Ciboulette,” which means chives in English, the 61-year-old Zuleta is offering the same type of cuisine he loves and was taught precisely to prepare.
“La Ciboulette” opened last week to rave reviews and packed audiences.
The name of the restaurant comes from a similar restaurant owned by his friend and mentor, in LeMans, France.
“It’s named in honor of her,” Zuleta said.
While Chef Peter Ong is the main chef, Zuleta has his hands in the dough – in more ways than one.
“I prepare all the deserts for the restaurant,” Zuleta said. “I come in early in the morning to make sure all the deserts are prepared fresh.”
While it might be natural for a Cuban to feature arroz con pollo and rice and beans at his restaurant, that doesn’t happen at “La Ciboulette.”
“I always liked the sauces and the butters,” Zuleta said. “There are definitely no black beans. Everything is traditional French cuisine, like sweetbreads, duck dishes, lamb stew and escargot. Some friends say that I should be serving `Nuevo Latino’ dishes, but that’s not me.”
Zuleta feels that there is a need for a French restaurant in north Hudson County.
“Our neighborhood has changed so much,” Zuleta said. “We have nothing like this around here. It was definitely needed. It’s about time to have a French restaurant in Hudson County. I wanted to bring something different here.”
Added Zuleta, “People seem to be happy. I’ve heard nothing but good things so far.”
Zuleta said that he was overjoyed when his dream became reality a week ago.
“I was really excited when I opened the doors and so many people came in,” Zuleta said. “I was a little misty. It’s been my dream for a long time and now. Everything has come together. It’s a reality. I just hope the people continue to like my food and we’ll see what happens.”